Salina Turda in Romania, a salt mine and amusement park

Details

Category: Travel stories and visits

Published: Wednesday, 19 February 2014 13:44

Written by Davide Vadalà

One of the entrances of Salina Turda

 Salita Turda is an old salt mine with a unique atmosphere given by the underground amusement park housed in its majestic chambers. It is located in Romania, a 40 minutes ride from Cluj-Napoca, the second biggest Romanian city and former Transylvania Capital. It became nowadays a touristic destination known to locals, but not to international visitors.

History of Salina Turda in a Nutshell

Exploitation first started in the surface of the area over 2000 years ago, and later expanded underground. The extraction was stopped in 1932 and the salt mine was consequently abandoned. Afterwards it served various functions like bomb shelter during WWII and cheese storage. In 1991 it has been declared a "Mine Museum" and opened in 1992 as a touristic attraction and a spa center; later it has been renewed and brought to the present state with a new inauguration in 2010.

Attractions of the Salt Mine in Turda

The salt mine in Turda is nowadays not only a Museum, featuring several extraction chambers and old wooden machinery, but also an amusement park with several attractions and a spa center. Apart from entertaining the visitors, one of the ideas behind the realization of the amusement park is to create an enjoyable place for children to stay as long as possible and to benefit from the clean and ionized air, a good treatment for respiratory problems. The same principles are exploited in of the rooms of Salina Turda, called the Gizela Mine, specifically designed for health treatments, because of its particular micro-climate with a constant temperature, favorable humidity and absence of pollutants.

While the combination might look daring, it was a successful and unique choice; I have no doubts in saying that the Salt Mine in Turda is in the top three places that I've visited in the last years!
And such an amazement is coming at an incredibly affordable price, since the entrance ticket is about 5$ for adult and 2$ for students and kids. This is the cost to access the salt mine and the amusement park, any extra activity needs to be paid: a ride on the spinning wheel in example is costing about 1.5$.

Since the temperature in Salina Turda is between 10-12°C (50-54F) all year round, we suggest to pack some warm clothes if visited in summer.

Tunnel leading to the salt mine

The access to the salt mine is through a tunnel 917 m (0.57 miles) long, called Franz Josef tunnel, with its walls covered by a 40 cm thick masonry at the beginning, further transforming into a natural organic shape. I couldn't stop myself from "tasting" these appealing walls, and it really tasted like salt!

The first room to be visited is Iosef Mine, a cone shaped chamber also known as the "Echo chamber", 112 m (368 feet) deep, with a diameter of 67 m (220 feet). It is quite dark and there is a fence stopping the visitors from reaching the edge, so not much can be seen below.

But more than about sight, this room is about hearing since its particular structure can echo a sound up to 16 times.

Entrance tunnel with organic form and salt deposit at the bottom

 The interesting texture of the walls is due to the geological process of formation: different layers were created by the sea flooding the area and then receding during the ages, and eventually bended by tectonic movement. Over 99% of the mineral found in Salina Turda is made of Sodium Chloride, that means it is very pure. Most of Transylvania is covered by salt deposit, with an average thickness ranging from 250m to 1200m (0.15 - 0.75 miles).

Nice patterns visible in the minerals

 In the Crivac Room it is possible to admire the wooden extraction machine from 1881, a unique example of this kind in Europe. It was drawn by horses and used to lift the salt extracted from the Rudolf Mine to be later transported through the entrance gallery.
Other rooms in the Museum area, are housing other ancient machinery, an altar used for religious celebrations, and the "staircase of rich people".

Horse drawn extraction machine from 1881

 The next chamber is the Rudolf Mine, a trapezoidal room with a length of 80 m (262 feet), a maximum width of 50m (164 feet) and an height of 42m (138 feet).

Hanging lamps and glossy surfaces are creating a suggestive and unreal atmosphere.
The north wall, visible on the left of the photo below, is covered with salt stalactites that can grow as much as 2-5 cm (1-2") per year and break under their own weight when they reach a length of about 3 m (10 feet). The wooden balconies, accessible to tourists, were originally intended to control the evolution of the works below. The Rudolf Mine was the last one to be exploited in Salina Turda.

The two balconies hanging at the very top of Josef mine

 In the Rudolf Mine is also located the amusement park with pool tables, table tennis, a Spinning Wheel and bowling lanes. To enjoy one of the attractions, an extra fee is required, but it is still quite affordable for western standards.

View of the main hall from the very top of Rudolf mine

  The Spinning Wheel is 20 m (66 feet) high, has 6 cabins and takes about 8 minutes to finish one rotation.

The spinning wheel inside the main hall of Salina Turda

 In the Rudolf Mine there is even an amphitheater with 180 places for concerts and musical events.

The small auditorium inside the main hall of salt mine in Turda

 To reach the bottom of the Rudolf Mine, it is possible to use a modern elevator, added during the last renovation in 2009, or to go by feet through the 13 floors of the staircase made of fir timber. Going by feet give the possibility to enjoy the view from different levels and to see details otherwise unseen with the elevator.

View of the elevator and the main hall

The Maria Terezia mine is the most suggestive chamber and has a total height of 120m (394 feet). This photo was taken from a panoramic balcony located at 90 m (295 feet) of altitude. Inside this bell shaped mine a natural lake was formed by water infiltration and precipitation. The salty lake is 8 m (26 feet) deep and has a diameter of 70 m (230 feet) at the bottom. At the center of the lake is emerging a 5 m (16 feet) high island, made of waste salt damped here during the years.
A salt waterfall is visible on a side of the curved wall of the Maria Terezia mine.

The natural lake formed inside Teresa bell-shaped mine, seen from an altitude of 90 m

 Going lower and lower it's eventually possible to reach the surface and to access the island through a wooden bridge. Several futuristic platforms are here for people to relax, enjoy the view and wait for a tour on a rowing boat at a price of 10 RON (3$) per person. Maximum three people can stay in the same boat.

Platforms over the salty island inside the lake 

The photo below is giving an idea of the size of the Maria Terezia mine, with the boat near the wall looking minuscule. The contrast between the colourful boats and the shades of gray of the walls is adding up to the atmosphere.

 Recreational boats inside the lake in Salina Turda

When we visited the salt mine of Salina Turda we weren't able to experience any of the attractions because it was already too late, so we suggest to check the schedule first. But despite this it was for us one of the places that made our jaws drops and that we'll be enthusiastic to go back to visit at anytime. So if you are planning to visit Romania don't miss the chance to enjoy Salina Turda!

Homestay in the Himalaya: an unforgettable birthday in Nepal

Details

Category: Travel stories and visits

Published: Sunday, 29 December 2013 21:47

Written by Davide Vadalà

Family photo of my birthday celebration in Nepal

Corn fields in Dithal, with the Himalaya visible on the backgroundIf I think of the most surprising birthday I've ever had in my life, it was no doubt my 29th birthday celebrated while I was in the Himalaya in Nepal, in a homestay with a local family.

After trekking for three weeks the Annapurna Circuit and further away, I went back to my basecamp in Pokhara. After such an amazing experience in the nature, one of the most memorable of my life, I couldn't get used to "city life" anymore. That's how I remembered of a man that approached me a few days earlier on the lakeside of Pokhara. He asked me if I could have been interested in a homestay in a village (Dithal) in the Annapurna Area of the Nepali Himalaya, where his mum and sister were living. At the first moment I thought it was just oLocal woman sipping a tea in Nepalne of the many people trying to earn their daily life approaching, and maybe scamming, foreigners. But later I found out that he was actually spontaneous and sincere, he was running one of the many outdoor shops of the area and he had no real interest in earning money from the situation. As far as I can remember, he was asking for 7$ per day, local frugal food and accommodation included: it was more about keeping his mum entertained than having an economical advantage. We started a conversation, and I eventually made up my mind and after some time I went back to arrange my homestay in Dithal, eager to experience more of the Annapurna Area.

His teenage nephew was my guide for the occasion.The teenage nephew, proudly pointing "his" valley He took me from Pokhara and brought me to their village, where I spent 4 memorable days (so little time if I think about it now!) in complete relax, following the farmers' rhythm of life, sharing my meals with them and getting involved in family business.
In the old, cozy cob house were living the Grandma (the mum of my "bait") with her daughter, and the two grandchildren, coming and going according to their school schedule. There was no father, so the woman had to take charge of all the work and the responsibility. Even if she wasn't fluent in English, she could communicate and she was eager to talk with me about her life. The Nepali family and the Israeli mumI remember her as a very sweet but at the same time melancholic woman, a result of her tough life trying to give dignity and to maintain her family and her kids at school.
The case wanted that the third day of my homestay in the Nepali Himalaya, was coinciding with my 29th birthday. I was actually having no expectations, and I wasn't planning to do anything in particular; it turned out instead to be a memorable experience.

The grandmother offered to prepare the typical local donuts to celebrate my birthdayDithal, Annapurna area: Kids having fun dancing and singing: it wasn't happening that often, it was an event for the whole family, and everybody was excited to wait for my answer. The deal was that I was supposed to buy a bag of oil (yes, it was packed in small plastic bags) since it was too expensive for them costing about 1$ per package. I clearly accepted, and with my decision it started for everybody the donut-bread party.

Some planets probably aligned despite my disbelief, since from that moment I attracted good events and nice people one after the other. AMe eating a donut with the two russian hikers and the Israeli Dadn alternative family traveling from Israel, staying previously with them, were passing by with their two kids to say hello to the family, and they eventually joined the celebration. Then was the turn of kids, friends and neighbours from the surroundings. And the team was eventually completed when two Russian trekkers, guided by the bait-uncle from Pokhara, reached our place. The "family" increased so much that I had to run to buy an extra bag of oil. A small extra expense for a much bigger experience to remember.
The evening proceeded with the kids having fun in the The grandmother lighting sigarette with a burning charcoalcourtyard, playing music and dancing, and us eating donuts and socializing in the interior. The grandmother was at the center of the attention, as a real keeper of the household. Nobody could say how old was she, but despite her deep wrinkles, she looked like she always had been there, firm, eternal, and secure. She was smoking a cigarette, jauntily lighted with a burning charcoal, as if even the toxic fumes she was inhaling, couldn't impact her eternity.

Eventually it was night and we had put an end to the donuts-bread party and to go and take some rest. The next morning after a communal breakfast, and a "family" picture,  it was already time to say goodbye to our guests and to go back to "our" village life.

Christmas markets in Europe: our Christmas Spirit tour

Details

Category: Travel stories and visits

Published: Tuesday, 03 December 2013 22:11

Written by Davide Vadalà

Detail of a Christmas Tree in Berlin

Tivoli Garden in Copenhagen at Christmas timeWhile we are not fans of the commercial aspect of the Christmas Markets, last year during our trip back from Norway to Romania, we passed at Christmas time through some European capitals, and we were able to experience some genuine Christmas Spirit. We are not pretending to say what are the best Christmas Markets in Europe, but we can give you a quite good overview of the places we were able to visit.

From the German Christmas Markets to the less known local fairs, we were actually never looking for them, but they inevitably ended up in our route, being often placed on the main squares. We didn't buy anything, but we filled up our spirit with warm Christmas scenes.

 Christmas Market in Prague

The Old Town Square in Prague at ChristmasLet's begin with our favourite: the Christmas Market in the Old Town Square in Prague. Not because it was having anything exceptional compared with the other fairs; it is actually composed of a very few stands, and a stage where to listen to some local performance.  But the reason why we put it on top of our list, is because of the amazing memories we are carrying from that experience. We climbed up the tower in the main square of the old town, and enjoyed the view while the snow was falling down, a breathtaking sight, difficult to forget.
More Christmas Markets are found around the city, particularly known the one in Wenceslas Square.

Charlottenburg Christmas Market in Berlin

Charlottenburg Christmas MarketGerman Christmas Markets are famous all over the world, and since we were stopping in Berlin, we didn't miss the chance to visit the most appealing one in the German Capital: Charlottenburg Christmas Market. It was actually the only one that we decided to go and visit on purpose, rather than randomly stumbling upon it.
The setting was quite impressive, with the Charlottenburg Palace on the background, and light games changing in its facade. The market itself is a quite simple series or stands organised in rows, packed with people going there to fill with beer, sweets and souvenirs. In one corner, it's also possible to admire one of the famous wooden structures built Sony Center in Berlin at Christmas timefor the occasion.
Many more Christmas Markets can be found around Berlin, we personally liked the atmosphere and the decorations of the Sony Center in Potsdamer Plats, while we were disappointed with the Christmas Market in Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche. We didn't have a chance to visit this time the other not to be missed Christmas events in Germany, like the Christmas Market in Nuremberg.

Christmas Market in CopenhagenChristmas Market in Copenhagen

The Christmas Market in Copenhagen was probably the less impressive we visited, so we wouldn't suggest you to add it to your list if that's your only goal. If instead you are looking for some nice Christmas scenes, then you'll find plenty visiting Tivoli Garden that is beautifully decorated for the occasion.

Christmas Market in Bratislava

Christmas Market in BratislavaWhile compared to the others it is less touristic and not impressive, the Christmas Market in Bratislava looked like the most cosy and genuine, where you can go to meet your friend and drink a Glühwein, rather than shopping on Chinese Christmas statues. A nice warm feeling if you are passing by.

Christmas Market in Bozen (Bolzano) and Italy

Winwows decorations for ChristmasChristmas Markets in Italy are not that popular, and Italian Christmas freaks tend to pack on organized tours and to go abroad in Germany and Austria to satisfy their cravings. Despite this, it is still possible to find some also in Italy: the most known traditional market is held in Bozen (Bolzano) probably because of its German-Austrian origins. On the main square (Walter Square) are found the usual stands selling gifts,  decorations and serving Glühwein to local students. More interesting is the Crafts market not far away from Walter Square, where it's possible to go through an open air exhibition of local artists, some giving demonstrations on the spot.
The most famous Christmas Market in Italy is actually in Rome in Piazza Navona, but it is actually more connected with the celebration of the Epiphany in January rather than the Christmas itself.

Christmas Markets in Austria

Christmas Balls in BerlinI've still not had the possibility to visit the famous Christmas Market in Vienna, so my Austrian experience rely only on my visit to Innsbruck. Here the Christmas market is comparable in type to that one of the Italian "twin" city Bozen, but much bigger. If you are planning a tailored tour to see only Christmas Markets, then you better add Vienna to your list. But if you are passing by, it's a good idea to stop by and warm up with some Glühwein!

Calcata: the bohemian soul of a traditional Italian village

Details

Category: Travel stories and visits

Published: Wednesday, 21 August 2013 17:53

Written by Otilia Lefter

Panoramic view of Calcata in March

Last year we arrived in Rome just 2 days before Easter, specially to celebrate with Davide's family. When I heard that we were going to visit a traditional Italian village, Calcata, in the second day of Easter, I was imagining old people staying in front of their houses in a rocking chair with a fat cat purring in their lap,  waiting for their neighbors to greet them and start a conversation, or maybe young women shopping fresh vegetable in open markets,  while church bells are spreading their monotonous sound over the village. Well...

The main square in Calcata during Monday Easter (Pasquetta)Today is Pasquetta, the Monday Easter (second day of celebration) and the modern romans are jumping in their cars, taking their friends and go visit one or two “castelli” (picturesque villages around Rome) for the day. Our trip is about to start: we will be heading 50 km North of Rome, and in less than 1 hour we will be in Calcata Vecchia (The Old Calcata).  

The road is saturated with buzzing cars, and all I can think of is “what a beautiful sunny day to be wasted visiting sites with 5 tourists per square meter”...
All of a sudden I see this medieval Italian village carved on top of a 150m high vertical volcanic rock surrounded by dense forest as far as the eye can see, and I'm asking myself if my mind is playing tricks with some Local house in Calcatachildhood cartoon brought to life or we accidentally travel back in time. I'm holding my breath under shock eager to go out of the car in the next second, but a minimum “30 minutes finding a place to park the car” in the neighboring village Calcata Nuova  is inevitable and “normal”.
Finally we are on our way up to the old traditional village of Calcata Vecchia and luckily, cars are not allowed inside.

Reading the history in a magic globe

There are some odd but yet interesting historical aspects to this village that shaped its special atmosphere and fame throughout the centuries.

View from Calcata over the Treja ValleyThe story of Calcata dates back in ancient times, when some pre-roman italic tribe, called “Falisci” attributed a mystical energy to the place and begun organizing magic rituals.  In the mid 16th century a soldier previously captured in the village was found to be carrying in his cell a very special Christian relic: The Holy Prepuce of Jesus. After this discovery, Calcata transformed overnight in a popular pilgrimage site valued by the Vatican with a ten years “indulgence” or sin redemption for whoever came to worship it. In the second part of the 20th century the relic disappeared, and villagers speculated that might have been the Vatican to take it, in its efforts to end the debates on the subject and mass attention. In the 1930's the Italian government feared that the cliffs on which Calcata is build are not stable and there is a major risk of collapse in case of an earthquake,"It is forbidden the access to those who don't say Hi!" so the residents were moved 800 meters up on the road, to a safer land and new homes that became the “The New Calcata” (Calcata Nuova). But this wasn't the end. The story goes in a circle and just like in the fairy tales, after death comes a rebirth: in the 1960's and early '70s, hippie artists from all over the world started to squat The Old Calcata drawn by the beauty, freedom and its mysterious ancient energy. They renovated old houses, transformed caves in homes, opened art galleries, coffee shops, restaurants and gave a new face and atmosphere to what was considered until then an old traditional Italian village. At one point, after buying the properties from their rightful owners, the hippies convinced the government to withdraw their previous statement for what was starting to be known as “the village of freaks”.

Calcata: the Village of freaks

Free exhibition about GenesisIn January 2007 The New York Times described The Old Calcata as probably "the grooviest village in Italy, home to a wacky community of about 100 artists, bohemians, aging hippies and New Age types." Nowadays there are about 900 residents in Calcata Vecchia spreading their creative vibes and bohemian soul in all hidden corners, narrow streets, caves or attics. Esotericism is still an important aspect of this community, and every summer solstice and 31th of October they celebrate “The night of the Witches”, dancing and glorifying nature as in ancient pagan rites. There are puppet-masters, choreographers, actors and painters, all living in harmony in The Old Calcata, restoring its hypnotic voice just like a skilled mermaid would do by singing a magic song.

Living in a fairy tale

A cloths store in a wooden atticWe arrived in Calcata, we are finally inside the village in the main square and although there are tourists wandering around in what's probably the busiest day of the year for this Italian village, everything else looks still, silent,  just like a cinemagraph. Soon we discover to our own delight that we can enter in every “apartment” to see what's inside, although nobody seems to be at home to tell us which is private and which is open to the public.  I find a cloths store, more like a costume deposit in a wooden attic next to a small door offering theater classes which I'm too shy to open suspecting someone is still sleeping inside. Across the street there are small antique shops which transform in unsuspected long galleries after you're inside. We find artisans in their work studios speaking with some visitors for half an hour like with an old friend, and not bothering if everyone else inside is planning to buy or steal their creations. Home entrance on the edge of Calcata

We enter in some free art galleries, and the same here: the mastermind of the exhibition is busy drinking some wine, entertaining his friends in a corner, next to a stair that brings to his small library or open bedroom(?!) and doesn't seem to care if the visitors are “breaking” inside.We wander along the narrow streets and arrive in a minuscules sunny square with a lovely cat relaxing in a flowerpot. In front of us, a breathtaking view of the valley. No movement, just a majestic bird "If you find a bird that felt down from its nest or is in danger please put it in the small cage behind the door. Thank you"hovering in circles the horizon. The cat is having her poster on a door “asking” the visitors to “please don't let your dog companion enter inside this store, since it's my home”.  Inside the store, the cat's owner or “roommate”  was selling beautiful lamp shades done with plastic flowers from recycled bottles. Going through carved stone passages we end up in another terrace, someone's narrow backyard, with no one around us, just the wind whispering in our ears in front of a stunning panorama. It's incredible how much serenity and peace you can find in this place.

There are few moments when I felt so helplessly soaked in contemplation, so happy for everything around me. Calcata Vecchia is just like living in a fairy-tale. That's why this Italian village has a special place in my hearth and I've been treasuring its memory ever since.

Novelda: an unexpected surprise in Spain

Details

Category: Travel stories and visits

Published: Wednesday, 24 July 2013 17:36

Written by Davide Vadalà

Otilia lost in th landscape in front of El Castillo de la Mola in Novelda

The little town of Novelda has been an unexpected surprise in our trip in Spain last year. We went there for two weeks volunteering with a work-exchange project (have a look at workaway platform), having no idea of what to expect from the place, but we ended up loving the town!
Hidden in the municipality of Alicante (Valencian Community), far away from the touristic circuit, Novelda has still a lot to offer to the intrepid visitors exploring unknown lands: Art Nouveau masterpieces, a triangular tower, salty lakes and a beautiful park.

Modernist Route in Novelda

The interior of the modernist house-museum in NoveldaThe modernist staircase of the house-museum in NoveldaOne of the main attraction in Novelda is the Modernist Architecture, a branch of Art Nouveau developed in Spain, that makes big use of organic forms, floral painting, stuccoes and painted ceramic tiles called Azulejos. Also the mosaic technique of "trencadis" introduced by Antoni Gaudi, is quite popular.

Modernist House-Museum

The Modernist route (Ruta del modernisme) in Novelda is first stopping at the Modernist House-Museum designed by Pedro Cerdan Martinez and built between 1900 and 1904. It's an impressive and very well preserved residence, that is possible to visit for free during opening time. It's built over 3 floors, that are giving shelter to the original furniture, stuccoes, paintings and an exhibition of Modernist memorabilia. The organic stairs at the ground floor is what I most enjoyed of the house.

Sanctuary of Santa Maria Magdalena

Main facade of the Sanctuary of Santa Maria Magdalena in NoveldaThere are other secondary modernist buildings to visit in the town, but if you are in a hurry you can skip them and go straight to the other masterpiece we found in Novelda: the Sanctuary dedicated to Santa Maria Magdalena, patroness of the town. It is a little bit out of downtown on top of a hill, but easily reachable by bicycle. It was designed by the local engineer Jos? Sala, with a clear inspiration from the Sagrada Familia of Antoni Gaudi in Barcelona.
It's a really beautiful example of Spanish Art Nouveau, made out of stones arranged to make it looks natural, Detail of the Sanctuary of Santa Maria Magdalena in Noveldawith curved windows, statues and azulejos all perfectly integrated to create a masterpiece.
Three stone vaults, made of beautifully carved pieces, are framing paintings in the facade and two 25 meters high (100 feet) towers are completing it. It's worth to have a look at every single detail, and the different use of materials: stones, pebbles, bricks. If I can't stop praising the exterior of Santa Maria Magdalena, the same is not true for the interior, that looks banal and uninspired. It's hard to believe that it was the same mind to design the two parts. The only thing of interest inside the church, is an organ completely made out of marble. It's the only one of this kind in the world, work of the artist Ivan Larrea, still to be finished. The entrance to the sanctuary is free also in this case.

The triangular tower of El Castillo de la MolaEl Castillo de la Mola

Just a few steps on the back of the Sanctuary, is staying the castle with the triangular tower of Novelda, "El Castillo de la Mola" built during the 12th century over a previous Roman fortress. Locally known in Novelda because of the unusual shape of its tower, it's worth a visit for the view over the valley that it's possible to have from the top.

Salty lakes of Novelda

Relaxing in a salty lake rich in Iron in NoveldaOn the valley facing the castle there are several natural lakes, known only by locals, where it's possible to go to chill out and take a refreshment from the torrid sun of the summer. They are all quite small, pond-sized, but very interesting: in fact the water is salty, and it's forming all around nice shapes of salt crystals, and one of the lakes is having a reddish color because of the iron reach water.
If you are impressed so far with what the unknown spanish town of Novelda has to offer, you have to know that it's still not finished!

El Parque del Oeste

El parque del Oeste in NoveldaGoing back into town, at the beginning of the urban area, there is an ancient necropolis, that despite its historical and archeological importance looks completely abandoned.
Remaining at the edge of the town, there is a nice park, called Parque del Oeste (West Park) or Parc Dels Dolors. Even here the influence of Antoni Gaudi with his Park G?ell is easily recognizable, from the wide usage of the mosaic tequnique called "trencadis". In the park it's possible to take a nice walk among palms, stone sculptures and fountains. There is even an open air theatre that seats up to 2000 people immersed in the vegetation.

Interior of the tea-house Casa l'Art in NoveldaCasa l'Art: ending the day with cup of tea

And to complete the day, is not to be missed a visit to a local "teteria" to relax and taste a cup of tea. Our suggestion is to visit the tea-house of Casa l'Art, where we volunteered these two weeks, set in a traditional building with a nice garden. Here you'll find the former international dancer Joan to welcome you in his nicely arranged house with a nice view over the town. And if you see a big lizard made out of pebbles at the entrance, it's the piece of art me and Oti made during our volunteering period!

Balkan Travel: Our experience in Sarajevo

Details

Category: Travel stories and visits

Published: Friday, 21 June 2013 17:47

Written by Otilia Lefter

 While we were hitchhiking in Bosnia, we found diversity everywhere we went. We were amazed and intrigued by the contrast between the colorful touristic center of Sarajevo, dynamic Balkan music, busy night life and the dark history of war behind it.

Take a coin, throw it in the air, and tell me what side it's facing you. Let's say you won, and from now on, that side should be considered the lucky one, the one you would always bet on. You would not win all the time, regardless of the head or tail you've chosen initially, and that's simply because the coin has two sides equally important. Just like that, while traveling in Sarajevo some get the pictures, others get the numbers. Those curious like me, will try to get the whole experience, by enjoying the attractions and understanding the history that shaped the reality of the present day. That being said, I hope you will choose to read both sides of the story: our personal experience in Sarajevo and it's living history.
 

We started our day with a big aim: to leave the lovely city of Novi Sad, (north of Serbia) and arrive in Sarajevo, the heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina, in the same day. Around 300 km, and 6 hours drive through what Google used to consider (in March 2012) “no man's land”- that means unexplored territory for Google satellites. Entering in Bosnia from Serbia, it's a must having a map, or a local with you, or psychic power and prepare for a long journey. This way to go to Sarajevo is not touristic at all. In fact, you can barely spot shops, gas stations and people on your way, so you need to have enough fuel for your car, food for your needs, and all the necessary things in case you don't find civilization on your way. From all of the above, we had directions until the border with Bosnia, some food, water, and a “foreigner face” - which we were told it helps a lot - Serbs cannot confuse us with Bosniaks  and vice-versa. We didn't know what to expect, but we were enough naive to believe that we can do it, and that paid off: 50 km before the border with Bosnia, in a blink of an eye, a nice lady in her '50s stopped out of nowhere. “Where are you going?” [Sarajevo, but if you cross the border is still good for us] . “Come on in, I'm going there”. And just like that, we crossed the territory of Republic of Srpska, a rural land, frozen-in-time, almost deserted occupied by Bosnian Serbs, with our driver, university professor and open minded ex-politician of Serbia telling us the history of the place, and insights on Bosnia's War of Independence. Yep, I know: we were lucky!:)

My first impression of Sarajevo

We reached Sarajevo! The city is placed in an idyllic valley surrounded by mountains (the Dinaric Alps) along Miljacka River in the heart of Southeastern Europe and the Balkans. The travel was a bless. Soon it was getting dark so we went in a park to search for a friendly local willing to lend us his mobile phone to call our couchsurfing host and announce him that we arrived (check out our guide for free sleeping). When you find yourself in a country outside EU, and roaming rates are just too high for your budget, you can try to use this trick: go in a public square and ask a resident if you could use his phone to give a short local call, in exchange for the money back. You'll see that 99% of the times they will not charge you anything, but if they do, you are still going to have an advantage by paying local fares not international ones. In the park, a weird man was climbing benches and bins to throw paper planes in the deep dark of the evening. As soon as he was jumping on the ground, he was running in search of the paper planes, desperately collecting them from under people's feet and benches and  repeating the restless process over and over again. Interesting, no one seemed to bother except of us. All this plus the bunch of old hectic people playing chess in poor light gave me goosebumps. We hurried to meet our host in search for safety, and we bumped in the nice Baščaršija square, with it's beautiful Sebilj fountain build in Ottoman style and the same energetic people eating, chatting loud, through dozens of greedy pigeons. A warm light was filling the square, and all the stories about the dangers of being a tourist in Bosnia faded in the night.

The traveller's lost paradise

Our host and his friends welcomed us with a shot of gin to loosen up our spirit, and took us to his  place, a house on the mountain with a very promising panorama of the city straight from the living room. They were all neighbors: an Australian guy of polish origin, an Australian girl, a crazy energetic Italian, having other two crazy energetic Italian girls as guests at his place, and during our stay other foreign “locals” came along just to make us realize that Sarajevo was an “exotic” touristic Bosnian destination after all. I had to find out what made those full time travellers stop in Sarajevo for months and even years...They were clearly in love with the city, with their freedom there, and the cheap lifestyle. They were considering it the best place on Earth to live in, and to experience the Balkan travel. Some where visiting their native countries or traveling across the world for some time, but always returning in the same point from where they started. They bound with the locals and their intense stories about the devastating Sarajevo Siege, and some even tried to be faithful to their secret paradise and endure hard winter as the locals were forced to do: 2 weeks without heating and water, buried in snow with a grateful smile on their faces. Sarajevo gave them ultimate lessons during winter, and ultimate freedom in the rest of the year. No wonder every aspect was balanced with multiple shots of alcohol in a perfect “yin & yang” harmony.

The Jerusalem of the Balkans

Next morning we descended through the Jewish cemetery exactly in the old city center with its historical bazaar. There, everything we've seen or imagined the previous night, turned miraculously in a beautiful, overwhelming mirage. We were surrounded by Muslim traditional restaurants, mouthwatering windows with burek (traditional pie) with it's delicious smell, lovely antique stores with their outstanding silverware art, carpets and colorful Turkish glass lamps with their unique style. Souvenir shops were at every corner, pedestrian streets full of buzzing tourists slowing down the flow, cats making their appearance on the brick roof of small boutiques, through the feet of the clients or mosque visitors. Walking along the main streets we end up without realizing, in a totally new picture: modern architecture, fancy malls and pubs due to the earlier Christian influence of the Austro-Hungarian Empire taking over the Ottoman Empire domination in the area. Everything was a mixture of cultures, traditions, religions and ethnicities. No wonder it is called “the Jerusalem of the Balkans”.  Little by little I started realizing Sarajevo's hypnotic spell upon it's travellers, the best of Bosnia's touristic attractions.  

Night life in Sarajevo: Enjoying the Balkan Music!

In the evening we reunited with our host and his friends and the picture changed again. This time we took a glimpse of Sarajevo's busy night life, another insight of the Balkan travel experience. We went from a genuine vintage bar to an Irish pub ending to Goran Bregovich's long-expected concert in Sarajevo. The first stop we did was at The Zlatna Ribica, also known as the “Gold Fish”. For any visitor loving antiques, this is a must see! The relaxed atmosphere, the goldish-reddish light and the glory of old times, vintage furniture and incredibly detailed interior design of grandma's kitsch addiction makes you feel trapped in a sepia picture. It's definitely worth it!
A few lines on the concert: Goran Bregovich performing in his hometown (yep, he's a Bosnian Serb) after too long time. A big Bosnian touristic event but also controversial: some people were angry. This category formed because Bregovich was living in Serbia during the Siege of Sarajevo, and most of his life, decision that made him look like a traitor. For sure there were insights we didn't know or wanted to know but we were struck by the grief of some “local”  travellers that decided not to come to the concert in respect for the residents. On the other side, Bregovich sang only traditional Bosnian songs, careful not to step outside the picture.

Our conclusion about Sarajevo

The city is developing fast, Bosnia's tourism is doing well, long time travellers are calling it “home”, returning here on a regular basis. The food is good, everything is cheep, and you don't have to worry about your safety! Although Bosnia is renowned for it's war and Sarajevo Siege, diversity and contrast are the country's dominant keywords, making it an authentic Balkan experience for travellers around the world! You can find an Orthodox church, a Catholic cathedral, a mosque and a synagogue whitin walking distance. Plus, in 2014 Sarajevo will be the European Capital of Culture. You have all the reasons to make it your next destination while traveling in the Balkans!

Check out the second part of our story about the insights on Sarajevo's longest Siege in European history and the incredible reality of those times.